Peru, Lake Titicaca - Urus Floating Islands

The wonderful floating Urus Islands was our final destination in Lake Titicaca. We spent several hours taking photos, gazing in amazement at what they had created. Apparently the whole reason for their existence was to avoid the continuing wars on the mainland, from different indigenous tribes to the arrival of the Spanish. They literally made themselves floating islands from reeds, surviving through fishing trout and by exchanging some of them for other edible produce. Now however they survive through tourism by selling their handicrafts and alpaca goods.

When you walk around on the island you can feel your feet sinking into the damp reed, it feels like you are walking on a boat, any longer than a few hours we would have ended up with motion sickness.

On the edge.

Some of the cereals and potatoes they receive in exchange for fish in Puno markets.

Love at first sight.

This wooden mobile is one of their handicrafts that they sell to tourists.

Peru, Lake Titicaca - Taquile Island

The boat from Amantani left early in the morning and before heading back to Puno we stopped off in two more islands, the first being Taquile. Here we walked around the island with our guide explaining some of the bizarre local traditions and enjoying the views.

Spying on a boy.

He won't take no for an answer...

All the single ladies on the island show their availability by displaying colourful pom poms on their clothing, unlike the married women who wear darker and more somber colours. They wear skirts with tiny poms poms, not to be noticed. You probably think this is a bit sexist but the men suffer the same fate. They have to walk around with an embroidered hat in red and white with a huge pom pom on the end of it. It´s very comical to watch.

All the men in the island wear a fabric belt which is primarily used for support while carrying heavy loads on their backs. According to our guide they carry up to 50 kgs in weight while walking for hours across the island.

The ornate belt below is no ordinary belt, it is proof of a woman's love to her future husband.

Depending on the quality and detail of her work, the sincerity of her feelings are judged by the community. The men also don't have it easy, as they have to sow an intricate hat, which is also a symbol of his faithfulness. The hat is then presented to the parents of his future wife who then decide whether he deserves her. This is done by pouring a glass of water into the hat and the hat has to contain the water for at least 10 minutes without leaking a drop. This is a tradition alive and well as we saw many single men sowing their hats as they walked. It all sounds like too much hard work.

The back of the belt contains her hair which is interwoven with Alpaca wool to give it extra resistance and thickness.

Peru, Lake Titicaca - Amantani Island

We took the bus from Cusco to Puno, the starting point to see some of the islands on Lake Titicaca. We decided to spend the night with an indigenous family on the Amantani Island. Upon arriving to the island we were greeted by some local women, we were then passed over to one of them, with whom we would spend the rest of the day and night with. It was such a surreal experience, we were literally on our own with our host family.

Elizabeth, the mother was only 23 and had a two year old girl. She lived in her husbands house like all the women who get married. All couples have a trail relationship for 3 years, which involves living with each other. During this time they are free to walk away at any point from the relationship. However after 3 years they must get married if both agree and from here there is no escape. Divorces are not allowed on the island.

This is her clay oven which is heated with logs below. Using only 2 pots she had to manage to cook for 9 people, including us.

This is Elizabeth cooking lunch for us when we arrived. Menu of the day was a tasty quinoa soup for starters, followed by a plate of white rice and boiled potatoes covered with an omelette.

The portions were huge and we both knew we couldn't leave any food on the plate. Apparently the rice is bought in Puno, a 4 hr boat journey which the local men make once a year to buy food supplies unobtainable on the island. Due to the altitude, around 4000 metres above sea level, they can only grow cereals and potatoes. Every Sunday a local market sells vegetables imported from Puno which are bit pricey according to Elizabeth.

Below you can see her 2 year old daughter Jolene and her sister Yolanda.

The kitchen and dining room.

View from her back garden.

Free time after sweating over the fire to wash her hair and relax.

Proud owners of Elizabeth's hand knit alpaca hats. Selling her work is her only source of income, apparently each one takes 2 weeks to make.

One of the locals.

Back breaking work.

Bruno giving it all in a game of volleyball between the locals and the tourists.

Substitutes on the side lines, eager to get a chance.

Envious onlooker.

Not easy...

Bruno loving his hat.

Family picture.

Clouds over the adjacent island.

A storm was brewing.

Time for dinner

She was just gorgeous, shy at first and then she couldn't get enough of the camera, especially after seeing herself in the screen.

At night we sat in her mud house with a tin roof helping her peel potatoes. It was fascinating to watch how she managed to cook so much food with 2 pots and one knife. The gas cooker in the picture was apparently a wedding present which she used until the gas ran out 3 years ago. Once dinner was ready we all ate on our knees keeping warm with the fire, my eyes were burning with the fumes and Elizabeth insisted on closing the door as a storm was coming. Within 10 mintues an amazing storm of hailstones hit the tin roof, a sound we will never forget. It lasted so long that we had to make a run for it, to get to bed. When we left the kitchen hut with swollen burning eyes, with nothing but a candle to make are way to bed, we couldn't believe our eyes when we saw hail almost 3 feet deep on the ground.

Time to leave, making our way to the small port where several women were selling their crafts.