Peru, Lake Titicaca - Amantani Island

We took the bus from Cusco to Puno, the starting point to see some of the islands on Lake Titicaca. We decided to spend the night with an indigenous family on the Amantani Island. Upon arriving to the island we were greeted by some local women, we were then passed over to one of them, with whom we would spend the rest of the day and night with. It was such a surreal experience, we were literally on our own with our host family.

Elizabeth, the mother was only 23 and had a two year old girl. She lived in her husbands house like all the women who get married. All couples have a trail relationship for 3 years, which involves living with each other. During this time they are free to walk away at any point from the relationship. However after 3 years they must get married if both agree and from here there is no escape. Divorces are not allowed on the island.

This is her clay oven which is heated with logs below. Using only 2 pots she had to manage to cook for 9 people, including us.

This is Elizabeth cooking lunch for us when we arrived. Menu of the day was a tasty quinoa soup for starters, followed by a plate of white rice and boiled potatoes covered with an omelette.

The portions were huge and we both knew we couldn't leave any food on the plate. Apparently the rice is bought in Puno, a 4 hr boat journey which the local men make once a year to buy food supplies unobtainable on the island. Due to the altitude, around 4000 metres above sea level, they can only grow cereals and potatoes. Every Sunday a local market sells vegetables imported from Puno which are bit pricey according to Elizabeth.

Below you can see her 2 year old daughter Jolene and her sister Yolanda.

The kitchen and dining room.

View from her back garden.

Free time after sweating over the fire to wash her hair and relax.

Proud owners of Elizabeth's hand knit alpaca hats. Selling her work is her only source of income, apparently each one takes 2 weeks to make.

One of the locals.

Back breaking work.

Bruno giving it all in a game of volleyball between the locals and the tourists.

Substitutes on the side lines, eager to get a chance.

Envious onlooker.

Not easy...

Bruno loving his hat.

Family picture.

Clouds over the adjacent island.

A storm was brewing.

Time for dinner

She was just gorgeous, shy at first and then she couldn't get enough of the camera, especially after seeing herself in the screen.

At night we sat in her mud house with a tin roof helping her peel potatoes. It was fascinating to watch how she managed to cook so much food with 2 pots and one knife. The gas cooker in the picture was apparently a wedding present which she used until the gas ran out 3 years ago. Once dinner was ready we all ate on our knees keeping warm with the fire, my eyes were burning with the fumes and Elizabeth insisted on closing the door as a storm was coming. Within 10 mintues an amazing storm of hailstones hit the tin roof, a sound we will never forget. It lasted so long that we had to make a run for it, to get to bed. When we left the kitchen hut with swollen burning eyes, with nothing but a candle to make are way to bed, we couldn't believe our eyes when we saw hail almost 3 feet deep on the ground.

Time to leave, making our way to the small port where several women were selling their crafts.